From previous conversations about LED lamps, I wonder if your objection to them is actually caused by flicker?
Most flicker at 100Hz. Certainly, the ones that run from raw mains usually do...
Now, few people would look at such a light, and say "wow, look at it flickering!". That's because our brains compensate, and above a certain frequency, we can't actually perceive the flicker as flicker. But, it's really tiring for our brains to cope with this, and it can lead to headaches and similar problems after a while.
How we perceive flicker is highly subjective and varies enormously from person to person.
When I first started work, I used to go into offices and wonder how on earth they managed to sit in front of strobe lights all day! This was in the mid 1990s, when most were using 14" CRT monitors with Windows 3.11. By default, the refresh rate was 60Hz. These people genuinely could not see a problem, but I could see nothing but strobing.
I would adjust the refresh rate to 72, 75 or 85Hz - the highest that worked. For me, the move to 72Hz made a big difference, but even at 85Hz, I can still see flicker - especially when it's a large screen monitor because your peripheral vision becomes more significant; of course, our peripheral vision is much more sensitive to motion.
Anyway, these people would claim to not be able to tell a difference. But a few days later, several of them told me that suddenly, they weren't going home with eye-strain and headaches (and migraines in one case). Which is what taught me about the importance of flicker to the well-being to us as humans.
Standard fluorescent lamps also flicker at 100Hz. It's annoying. There's every chance that CFLs might - that depends on the PSU inside, and I've never really investigated them (I use them for hallways and similar places where the light quality doesn't really matter, but the cost saving is worth considering).
So for my main source of light in my workshop, I use a pair of fluorescent tubes positioned above the bench, driven by a HF ballast. The ballast cost about £20 from eBay, and is dimable. That's good, because each tube is 80W!
I went for T5 types, and chose 4000K for the colour temperature. Higher than that is too blue. Lower is too yellow. Pay attention to CRI - colour rendering index - if you want to be able to read the coloured codes on smaller resistors. Old fluorescent tubes were pretty poor in that regard, and it's that that gave them a bad name. Modern tubes are "triphosphor". There is a modern code for lamps; mine are "840". That means the CRI is ~80%, and the colour temperature is 4000K. A "940" would be even better, but expensive. You might prefer "830", which is warmer. Try it and see - the tubes are cheap enough...
I have said more about colour rendering in a previous post. In short, an incandescent lamp is a "black body radiator" that emits light energy at all wavelengths. Whereas anything else does not; if you rely on phosphors or gasses to produce light, you get a number of distinct "spikes" at certain wavelengths. But providing you get a decent quality lamp, this is not a problem. After all, if you were bothered by spiky light, you wouldn't be able to watch TV ;) Also, try looking up the spectrum of sodium lighting...
Having earlier recommended trying a fluorescent fitting with a HF ballast (which would be very cheap to buy these days, and could easily be redeployed elsewhere if it didn't work out for you), do bear in mind that they can interfere with radio reception. For that reason, I also have some conventional "magnetic" ballasts - these provide general light around the area. When lining up a radio, I turn off the HF lamp. But when soldering - when I need the best light - the interference problem is a non-problem. It works well...
Another problem with a lot of LEDs is the fact they are a point-source. Fluorescent lamps are much more diffuse, and fill the room well. The workshop I had at your age was lit with a 500W halogen floodlamp, which was absolutely hopeless. The next workshop I built had 6 100W spotlights on a track above the bench. Utterly useless. I replaced those with four 600mm recessed lighting modules, which took a less than half the power and lit the place up amazingly.
White walls help - you need light to bounce around to eliminate shadows (that's a difficulty in my cellar workshop).
I have recently been very impressed by some modern LED light modules - basically a 600mm square of perspex that is edge-lit by LEDs. These are designed to replace the older fluorescent modules used in modular ceilings, and are available in quite a wide range of sizes. These are driven by HF power supplies, so no flicker. Brightness and colour temperature seems very good indeed. The prices are stiff, but falling all the time. I've noticed that they do them in 300mm wide versions, which would fit perfectly between the joists in my cellar, so in a couple of years time, I might buy some of those to provide some general lighting instead of the 100Hz fluorescents - if the price has fallen enough!
When you hit your 40s, your eyesight starts to change, and this stuff will matter more. That's why I've done so much research recently!